Diamond Shapes

Cut Versus Shape

The difference between diamond cut and shape is that the cut refers to the number of facets in a finished diamond and how those facets are proportioned in the gem’s diamond. The precision and expertise of the cut will affect the stone’s sparkle and interior fire.

Shape, on the other hand, is the overall form outline of the finished jewel takes. Different shapes have different numbers of facets, and each one has particular proportions and dimensions that will give it the best overall appearance.

Diamond Shapes

Diamonds come in many different shapes. Often, the final shape is decided by the lapidary who cuts the stone based on the initial shape of the raw diamond and any flaws that must be removed. Most basic shapes can be enhanced with trimmed or rounded corners, additional facets, or other characteristics to increase the stone's beauty, and many jewelers feature specialized stones with their specific cuts licensed under their brand name. The Hearts on Fire Diamond is one such example.

Basic Shapes.

What shape is your diamond? Round Princess Marquise Oval Asscher Emerald Pear Heart

Knowing the characteristics of basic shapes will help couples choose which one is most suitable for their preferences, personality, and budget. When shopping for a particular shape, however, it is important to remember that the guidelines below can be adapted to whatever the couple’s individual tastes are.

Emerald.

• Emerald: The emerald shape features a rectangular diamond with trimmed corners. Flaws may be more obvious in this shape and clarity is critical because it has fewer facets to reflect light and hide minor defects. Emerald shapes are popularly set with multiple side stones to provide balance to the elongated shape.

• Pear: This shape is also referred to as a teardrop diamond. Although pear or teardrop diamonds are popular as pendants and earrings, they are also considered an excellent choice for engagement rings. Because of the unbalanced shape, they are not usually set with elaborate accent stones, though a sleek pear shape can create the illusion of slimmer fingers.

• Heart: The heart-shaped diamond is considered more of a novelty and isn't commonly used for engagement rings. A heart shape is more popular for pendants and earrings, but can be found in selected engagement rings, particularly in gemstone rings. The cut can be difficult to make, so you'll want to examine this diamond thoroughly before you purchase it to locate hidden flaws or defects.

Marquise.

• Marquise: Elegant and traditional, the marquise is a slim oval shape with tapered, pointed ends. The center stone is usually set parallel to the finger, and it is frequently enhanced with small accent stones along either side. This shape is extremely popular for bridal sets.

• Radiant: This square-shaped diamond has barely trimmed corners to enhance its brilliance, making it essentially a square version of an emerald shape but with a blend of facets usually found in round stones. It can be hard to find however, and is not commonly used for engagement rings because of its scarcity.

• Princess: The princess diamond is also square, but the corners are not trimmed. It is a very popular diamond for engagement rings, particularly rings with three or more stones using a princess gem as the center stone. This can be a less expensive shape of diamond because it follows the stone’s natural crystalline shape and may be easier to cut. Color is an important characteristic of princess stones because lower-quality color is more visible at the stone’s corners.

Round.

• Round: Traditional solitaire engagement rings have remained the most popular choice for many couples over the decades, and most involve round diamonds. Round diamonds are incredibly versatile and can be found in prong and channel settings, with or without accent stones, and in a variety of unique engagement rings and bridal sets.

• Oval: The oval shape is frequently used with other stones in a detailed setting where it may be flanked by smaller diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, etc. Women with small fingers and hands sometimes choose this cut as a solitaire because it blends nicely with the length of a finger rather than standing out as a stronger focal point.

• Trilliant: This triangular-shaped diamond provides a unique choice for couples looking for that special diamond. Trilliant diamonds are most frequently found as accent stones to emerald, radiant, or princess diamonds because of their ability to nestle snuggly against the side of a larger stone without unsightly gaps, but a well-chosen trilliant would also make an admirable center stone.

Asscher.

• Asscher: This pristine cut is a square with deeply trimmed edges. As a trademarked design, Asschers are rare and very sought-after for their remarkable depth and beauty. Couples interested in this unique shape should take care to choose only authorized dealers to guarantee a worthwhile purchase.

• Cushion: Gently rounded like a pillow or cushion, this smooth shape is reminiscent of vintage or antique designs. cushion shapes are relatively rare and are often set off as solitaires rather than being incorporated into elaborate settings.

Choosing a Shape

After you have viewed different diamond shapes and are familiar with each one, you will undoubtedly have an aesthetic preference. Before finalizing your decision, however, it is important to try on rings with different diamond shapes to be sure you are choosing one that best suits your hand. Thin, narrow shapes such as the emerald or the marquise do not sit well on thick fingers unless they are set with accent stones, and similarly thicker shapes such as a heart or round do not always look best on thin fingers. Examine a variety of shapes in different settings to find that one special ring that truly looks best on your hand.

If you are shopping for an engagement ring as a surprise, you may want to ask your intended what shapes she prefers before choosing a ring. You can examine her favorite pieces of jewelry for patterns, or ask her friends or relatives if you trust their discretion.

It is also important to familiarize yourself with the traditional proportions for diamond shapes. While these are only a guideline, they help demonstrate the quality of a stone by showing how closely it relates to traditional standards of cut and shape excellence. At the same time, the true beauty of a diamond engagement ring is in the eyes of its bearer, and couples should not feel obligated to choose one diamond over another that they prefer simply based on numerical values. If the stone looks best in your desired setting and on the bride-to-be’s finger, then it is the perfect stone no matter what its shape or dimensions. (Table figures provided by Blue Nile Diamonds.)

No matter which shape you choose for an engagement ring, the most important thing it must convey is your love and commitment to the relationship. By researching diamond shapes beforehand and choosing a one that suits your beloved, you demonstrate your caring and consideration for her preferences. That forethought will undoubtedly presage many happy years of marriage.